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Any small cutting device or scissors does the job admirably well. Yoga blocks are helpful to raise the loom high enuff to get a cone or spool of warp under the beam. Also note the beginning knot. Note the beginning tie on the left in blue you can see the future tie on to end the warping pattern. The first and last warps are not woven on. See Tapestry for the how to illustration for tying these two knots. There will be an empty warp thread on both sides of the weaving. I try and keep it a little ways away from the warps that are circling around the beams when I warp.
These first and last warps warp will not travel through a heddle- They just hang out until needed. Circle the two beams of the loom continually until the allotted width is wrapped or warped.
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Try for an even tension as you wrap. Tie off warps on bottom beam. That warp and knot also will hang out in the middle of the beam-not even or flat with the rest of the warps. They can be used to check spacing and pull-in or pull out by comparing the distance between the first an last warp and the weaving. Being able to move the fell line around the beams allows you to weave on the back and the front and keep the fell line at slightly below the shoulders and above the elbows-breast height. Now that you have the required amount of warps.
Tie off on the bottom beam. This last warp will not be woven on. So move it slightly out of place. It also does not travel through a heddle neither does the first tied on warp. If when you turn around the beam those ends become to short you can just tie more warp thread to the ends and finish tying up.
Space the warps a bit. This is really important. Check between the layers of weft and at the back top and bottom beams. Heddles come on a spool. Heddles are uncut , on a spool cut through the small slit not the long slit. This also gives you something to use to check the order of the warps at the top spring. It will be pulled out once the heddles are on.
Or, at the bottom edge of the loom weave in the 3 metal rods below where heddles will be added to the rod.
Now that you have warped the loom in a circular fashion, it is the time to put the heddle bar in place. Attach the heddle bar. I lower the heddle bar so I can add the heddles sitting down at a comfortable level.
They ill be parallel to the floor and the ceiling. I am one of those persons who can never consistently tie square or granny knots. I like to use Texsolv heddles.
The heddles come uncut and wrapped around a spool. I have never worn out a heddle or replaced n all of the hours which are hundreds that I have woven with them. Carefully, place heddles on every other warp on the top rod. One off and the rest are going to be off and twisting in to the wrong sheds when you try to use them. When you get to the middle be very careful about where half is. Make sure the heddles will pull at a 90 decree angle-continue until.
Need be at 9o degrees and not crossing supports. This is where a really common error occurs and can really narrow the sheds-reducing them to nothing. Tighten all the end screws with the hex wrench.
A really common error occurs and can really narrow the sheds-reducing them to nothing. Note the difference in the two photos. Do the bottom row of heddles. Again, when you reach the middle make sure the heddles split on the half way mark at a degree angle. This might be a good time to see if half way is matching up on both bars.
That little doohickey in the middle that the rod goes through can split the wefts and warps apart creating crossed heddles between the two sets of heddles or pull them in such a way to create a gap between warps as you weave. Optional- Twine across the warp from side to side right under the spring, but above the heddles.
Tie off at the correct width of the spring. This helps keepe the spring from stretching out of place over time. When you do turn the warp around the beam it is easy just to. Top twining that can be pulled around as you turn the warps around to a new position. Be careful where the rod begins and ends when you tighten the hex bolt. On some of the older larger mirrix loom- my Zeus- the distance was too great between the supports that the rods went through.
So on really tight warps the rods would pull out of shape and become difficult to get a healthy shed. The fix is very easy- Purchase some nuts that fit on the rod that are the exact size of the distance between the rod and heddle bar. They will act as an extra support for the bar.
Tighten the warp if the tension of the warps feels or looks uneven or loose in any where. Walk away from the loom and leave it sitting overnight. Come back and it should be tensioned evenly.
Cautionary notes when you do this. Make sure you tighten the wing nuts on the side the same distance use a ruler to. It saves the wrist and fingers. Yeah, that funny looking flat thing with the slot that comes with the loom is an incredible wrench.
On a copper loom use two wrenches- One to hold one but or wing nut from turning as you turn with the other wrench. After a few hours or better One of the biggest mistakes with the Mirrix is that without having a tight warp the shed will be smaller. When thinking about sheds and the Mirrix or any loom realize that a shed is a suggestion of how large it could be if used properly.
The hand goes into the shed and turns to make a larger shed. Check out my u-tube videos on the Care and feeding of bobbins. They are too big to be practical with this method of warping. Notice the size difference of the. I often or have my students use shiska bamboo stakes. Ears protecting heddles from sliding off the rod-Navajo loom.
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