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The method of braiding is itself a tradition, typically performed by women sitting outdoors if the weather is nice or in the shade of their patio, chatting, and passing the time.
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The length of braided aveluk must equal four times the height of the person braiding it. Her grandmother, for example, advised against certain plants. You should eat aveluk. These recipes are hereditary, she explained, passed down from grandmother to mother, mother to daughter.
Sons are excluded from this transmission, as gender roles are fairly strict in traditional Armenian households. As she leafed through her Soviet Armenian encyclopedia of wild plants, Greta remembered that from a young age she harbored a great love for the abundant leafy greens. I was curious about it, more so than other girls my age. Today she maintains her own garden, growing vegetables from local seeds—a rare phenomenon these days, as most Armenian farmers opt to use foreign seeds.
Local varieties, unfortunately, do not yield large harvests—only enough to feed one family. Despite the regional and social significance, these greens are not universally loved, even among Armenians. The taste is so closely intertwined with the fields that it is off-putting for some.
There is also the confusion over Western Armenian food versus Eastern Armenian food, a result of the dispersion of Armenians from the former Ottoman Empire at the turn of the twentieth century. Aveluk is about as Eastern Armenian as it gets. This is perhaps why many restaurants in Yerevan prefer to play it safe and, outside of the occasional item, not offer these traditional dishes.
One exception is Dolmama , a quaint, cosmopolitan restaurant on Pushkin Street that has carved itself a niche for offering traditional dishes of both Eastern and Western Armenia with an elegant spin.
The menu includes signature soups made from aveluk and pipert, both of which have become extremely popular items for their novelty and taste. Omitting these signature plants from the menus of restaurants in tourist areas highlights an interesting dilemma.
On one hand, many of these dishes remain preserved in their authentic contexts, to be experienced in the regions in which they originated as long as you know where to find them. For no matter how many restaurants offer aveluk on their menu, if you ask a local how they like it prepared best, they will always say the same thing: Karine Vann is a writer based in Yerevan and originally from the D.
She is the communications manager for My Armenia , a program developing cultural heritage in Armenia through community-based tourism. Sources Petrosian, Irina, and David Underwood.
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