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Some ordinances detail the size required for a coop, the number of windows that must be included, the minimum height of the structure, specifications with regard to the number of doors, and other criteria. Similar regulations might also apply to enclosed chicken runs; this portion of your structure may need to be of a specific size and height.
There are often additional restrictions with regard to chicken butchering, the storage of chicken feed, the regular disposal of manure, and other areas of maintenance. Ordinances often regulate the location of a chicken coop on your property. The size of your parcel of land can play an important part in this; larger lots or acreage parcels obviously offer more options for coop placement, whereas small urban lots may have limitations in finding an appropriate and legal place for a coop.
Do you need to know where to find ordinances for your area? Your local County Extension Service agent may also have helpful information. Buy from an Online Retailer. How to Build Chicken Coops: Plan, customize, and build the perfect home for your flock, brood, or clutch.
Backed by the National FFA Organization, our acclaimed series of How to Raise guides has helped countless first-time animal owners confidently care for their new companions. If you are involved in the FFA, interested in starting an urban or suburban hobby farm at home, or just curious about the country living or urban farming lifestyle, raising chickens is a great way to get started without a substantial investment of time or money. Building your own coop allows you to customize it to meet your needs—and it will save you money too!
How much space will you need? What is dust bathing? How many nest boxes and windows will your coop need?
How much will it cost? What steps do you need to take to keep your chickens safe from predators?
Samantha is a certified horse show judge and raises purebred Welsh Mountain ponies and Dutch, Holland Lop, and Netherland Dwarf rabbits. See how to qualify. If the run does not receive shade during the hottest hours of the day, add a layer of shade cloth on top of the chicken wire ceiling. Build a gently sloping ramp at least 8 inches wide from the ground level up to the platform for the enclosed area. Before this area is enclosed, outfit it with the following items: Locate the nest boxes along the front wall at least 24 inches above the floor.
These can be as simple as wooden shelves with plywood dividers that are filled with straw. Add a 2-inch piece of wood across the front of the boxes to keep the straw from spilling out. There are also prefabricated nest boxes available , though some chicken keepers use plastic kitty litter boxes for nests because they are easy to remove and clean periodically.
The roosts should be positioned higher than the nests.
Chickens are descended from tree-dwelling jungle fowl and will always seek out the highest point to sleep and the nests will quickly become soiled if the chickens use them for roosting. Now is the time to add a roof and walls to enclose the nesting and roosting area.
Any weatherproof material may be used, but tin is an easy, yet fashionable, choice for the roof, and wood siding makes a quaint exterior for the walls. When you build the walls, make sure to plan for easy access to collect eggs and clean the coop.
All access points should be lockable with raccoon-proof latches—a typical gate latch with a carabiner in the turnbuckle is usually sufficient to foil these masked bandits. Instead of covering them with chicken wire, use the same material that was used for the exterior of the coop. No anti-sag kit will be needed in this case.
You may need to acquire a permit to keep chickens in your area. The size of your parcel of land can play an important part in this; larger lots or acreage parcels obviously offer more options for coop placement, whereas small urban lots may have limitations in finding an appropriate and legal place for a coop. Instead cover the inside with chicken wire and apply a nice roof. Ventilation is extremely important in summer. The base of the waterer should be 6 to 8 inches above ground level.
Ventilation is extremely important in summer. The chicken door and the portion of the floor covered with wire mesh will allow air in from below, but there are also needs to be a place for hot air to exit at the top.